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Militär-Pullover Pattern
Transcribed by Jonathan Bocek, Translated by Detlef, Pattern from Joeri


The following is an original knitting pattern of a German sweater for Military use.  It was taken from a period civilian magazine.  The pattern has been translated into English.  Due to the knitting terms & translation, if there are any typos that you may know of, please let me know.  Also, if someone knows of someone who can possibly knit one of these, please email me at: poilu1917@aol.com.  I would like to have one of these myself. 

The Knitting Pattern:
1. Waist and sleeve borders (cuffs): 2 stitches right, 2 stitches left.
2. Neck and closure borders: in ribs (strips)(= back and forth running right)
3. Rest of pullover in the following surface pattern: 1., 3., and 5 row (backside): 2 stitches right. 2 stitches left lift-off (put through the thread before the 2nd stitch).  2., 4., and 6. row (front side): lift the cross thread laying on the backside onto the left needle across the following stitch, and with this stitch you need to knit up right-wise, then lift this cross thread again on the left needle and knit it up with the next stitch as usual right sided, 2nd stitch left./., 9. and 11th row: 2 stitches lift-up left. (pull thread through front), 2 stitches right. 8., 10. and 12th row: 2 stitches left, lift the cross thread laying on the backside onto the left needle across the following stitch, and with this stitch you need to knit up right wise, then lift this cross thread again on the left needle, the way across the following stitch and with this stitch knit up right wise. 13th row: redo from the first row.
 

 
Calculation of stitches, see page 28

Working steps:
The pullover get knitted after pattern.  Stop/stroke look at the pattern.  Backside: knit up 136 stitches plus a 8 centimeter measuring border, 2 left 2 right.  Then lift 10 stitches on the needle now go on with the descripted surface pattern.  In the side seam there must be 3 times each after 4cm, then 5times each after 2 centimeters you need to pickup one stitch, up to 162 stitches bust.  At 33cm from the stop/stroke, kettle up 7, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1 stitch for the armhole.  At 51 centimeter from the stop/stroke, slope/slant 4 times the shoulder (under the arm)(39 stitches).  Kettle up the leftover 50 neck stitches in 1 time.  The front part need to be worked as the back, up to 30 centimeters from the stop/stroke.  At this height you need to kettle up the middle 14 stitches and end the work in 2 halves.  At 47 centimeters from the stop/stroke you need to kettle up, always beginning of the needle, for the neck hole like the following: 3 stitches, 7 times 2 stitches, 1 stitch.  At 51 centimeters from the stop/stroke you need to slope/slant 4 times the shoulder (under the arm)(39 stitches).  Arms: add below 58 stitches and knit a 10 centimeter high board 2 left 2 right.  Then pick up 8 stitches, divided on the following needle, and go on with the surface pattern.  On both sides of the seam pick up a stitch 5 times after every 3cm, then 13 times after every 2 centimeters until 102 stitches upper arm width.  At 51 centimeters from the stop/stroke, for the sleeve ball (place where the arms go to the body), knit up both sides, always begin at the top of the needle, this way: 3. 3 times 2, 21 times 1, 4 times 2 and 3 stitches; the last 20 stitches in 1 time.  For the "overstep" (button flap) there must be added separate 16 stitches (=4 centimeters) and 17 centimeters high, knitted in ribs (strips).  At 3 centimeters from the stop/stroke is the first buttonhole (8 stitches away from the front edge and width of 4 stitches) to work in.  The other 3 buttonholes follow in spaces of 4.5 centimeters.

Measurements of this model pictured: bust 96 centimeters, length 53 centimeters.  This pattern correspond of a bodysize of 96-102 centimeters bust.  The mentioned amount of stitches are only valid for usage of pure wool.  

At 17 centimeters from the stop/stroke the stitches need to be picked onto 1 thread.  The "understep" (underflap for buttonflap) should be worked the same but without the buttonholes.

Then you will need to sew in both pieces into the frontpart, catch up the stitches from the neckhole (including the stitches of the over and underflap) and knit on the double neckpiece like this: 2.5 centimeters high in the ribs, then 2.5 centimeters flat right kettle it on.  

Put on the flat knitted part to the inside and seam it on.  Close neckpiece to neckpiece 2 "haften" and "bolts."

Material:
500 kilogramm Schaffhauser Wool Quality.
Deca fieldgrey, or mixed thread quality 1001 from 70% wool, 30% synthetic
1 pair of knitting needles size No.2, 4 buttons.

 

 

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